End of our second day in Kyoto and we drag our weary bodies into the Gion district. Here you will find hostess clubs, fine restaurants and geisha ladies hurrying down the narrow lanes to their next appointment.
Our target was a teppanyaki restaurant, much recommended in the guides as serving some of the best teppanyaki in Kyoto. I am not a fan, finding teppanyaki to be generally too greasy to be enjoyable, but was prepared to discover an entirely different taste experience in Japan. But the guides had not helped the business because once we arrived at the location we found it had closed down. But in the same street, next to a little canal, there were a number of other restaurants so we checked them out. Most had no sign outside that described what lay within; which probably meant that whatever it was, was prohibitively expensive. But one seemed to offer a set dinner for a set price; so we stepped inside.
We were met in the entrance hall by a lady who wanted to know if we realised that they served raw seafood, did we have any allergies, and did we know that they didn’t accept credit cards. Having answered all the questions correctly and removed our shoes, we were ushered into a room with a long table, with two other customers on one side and five chefs on the other. We took a seat next to the window looking onto the canal and waited to see what would happen.
Over the next hour or so, what happened was ten courses of some of the most exquisite food we had ever tasted; washed down by a generous carafe of sake. With limited English, the chefs did their collective best to explain what was being served and how it should be eaten.. We did our best to just savour the food and the occasion. The bill at the end was close to 4,000 baht equivalent; but it was an unforgettable meal and worth every yen.
The light was dim and it wasn’t really a time to take photos; but here are a few taken mainly at F1.4 and ISO 1600 and a stomach full of sake (in other words, focus is variable).
Comments 🔗
2013-10-11| robin sayswhat a treat!
2013-10-11| Andrew saysThat’s actually quite a decent price especially for Gion ( btw - it’s a great area to shoot at night wandering the streets…) - I’ve paid that ( and more at a good sushi place 25 years ago )…are you not now hooked on the attention to detail, presentation and just all around seriousness about doing the job to best of your abilities that is the norm in Japan? …That is why I still consider it my 2nd home - if I ever couldn’t live here it would be Kyoto ( or Hokkaido, or Shikoku…)
2013-10-11| Andrew saysjust remembered - there is a great eel restaurant somewhere near Kawaramachi-Sanjo that has been there since 1870-80something - get the unagi domburi after checking out the tanks of live eels in front - and used to be about $10 for the lunch special…it really is tasty ( I was hesitant t first but became a loyal convert )…hopefully it is still there and something to try if you are in the area on your next trip…
2013-10-11| Jock saysLooks Fab … I love seafood …. unfortunately the current missus is totally anti.
2013-10-12| Ivo H. saysLooks delicious! And it must have been a quality you do not see often.
2013-10-12| Spike saysDon’t worry, another one will be along shortly.
2013-10-12| Spike saysIt is impossible not to admire them. Expect a normal working life there can be pretty tough (small accommodation, nightmare commuting, pressure); but if I had the wherewithal I would love to live there for a while.
2013-10-12| Spike saysPut it on the list.
2013-10-12| Spike saysA long way from Fuji or Zen restaurants here.
2013-10-13| Wentworth saysNotwithstanding the quality I reckon after 10 courses and 4000 baht I’d still be be hungry. Fuji is a great business in my opinion, with very good food all things considered. I love it so much I used to get deranged by the slighest crictism of it although I have heard Japan is the home of Japanese cuisine.
2013-10-13| Spike saysI go to Fuji often (Zen not so much), sushi set for 180 baht is great value; but this was at a different level (quality and cost). At a more mundane level, we had some astonishing sushi meals at normal sushi restaurants for not much more than a Fuji meal.
2013-10-13| Wentworth saysThe food does look amazing, hopefully I’ll get to Japan one day but it seems unlikely in the short term. Great photos BTW.
2013-10-21| Andrew saysIf you want budget sushi ask around if there is a “maru-zushi” place nearby - you grab a table and they have (literally) a conveyor belt which winds its way amongst all the tables - the chefs in back keep making various things ( a plate of tuna, a plate of unagi, etc etc ) and just put them on the belt….just grab whatever plate interests you off the belt and munch away..( you can also order beers etc form the waitress who will bring you tea to start )…at the end of the meal they just count the plates ( usually was about ¥200 a plate - may be more now ) and tally the bill…much like dim sum…doesn’t have the ambience of a small sushi bar but if you need a fix and are not looking to mortgage any property they do quite well for a quick respite…
2013-10-22| Spike saysSounds very like the place we went to (twice) in an arcade under Kyoto station. Had to queue for seats both times; but the sushi was excellent; plus we had some soup and i had a very large tankard of draft beer. Seventeen plates later and the total bill was around 800 baht equivalent. I intend to eat there a lot when I go back!
2013-10-22| Andrew saysYeah, they are very much a “workingman’s “sushi type place but being Japan the food is usually quite good for a reasonable price - don’t forget the Kissaten’s as well ( coffee shops ) - they often have a set lunch ( teishoku ) for 800-1000 - stuff like curry rice which is also decent - and if you’re on the run even the bento box lunches from the 7-11’s are quite edible ( made fresh every day ) and you can even grab a beer or sake there to go with it - one stop shopping like that is the true mark of civilization !