Cats and kaiseki

· 1537 words · 8 minute read

Out third and last full day in Kyoto and we staggered down to breakfast. Out legs were still aching from the hours of walking and climbing over the previous days and we were exhausted. Although we had a full day ahead of us, it would be interrupted because we were going to spend our last night in Kyoto at a different hotel.

As we relaxed over breakfast, we discussed the various options for the day and places we might go and visit. I felt we should continue to consume as much as the city as possible while we still had time, but had some sympathy for she who must be obeyed when the word “walking” was raised. So in the end we just went to play with some pussies.

My wife had discovered a “cat cafe” on the web and was keen to check it out; partly because she was missing our cats, but also it seemed like an interesting cultural oddity. With accommodation at a premium in Japanese cities, people who want cats are often unable to keep them; so they go to a cat cafe for a cuddle.

This one was hard to find; an anonymous entrance led into a lobby with a lift. Enter the lift and only then did we spot a little paw sticker next to the second floor button. We then had to pay 800 yen for an hour with the cats and some extra if we wanted a drink. I enjoyed just relaxing and watching the proceedings, while she who must be obeyed pursued assorted pussies around the room.

Weird.

After the cat experience and a leisurely lunch, it was time to transfer to our new hotel. In contrast to the large, modern hotel we had just stayed in, our new lodging was to be a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn. These are more often found in rural areas, but there are some in the cities. Ours was a one hundred and forty year old building with four rooms, run by a family comprising mother and father, son and daughter-in-law. They were by far the most charming people we met during our stay in a country which seems to be full of charming people.

We were met by the mother who treated us as if we were long lost friends. Having removed our shoes, we were given some slip-ons to wear to go to our room. Once in our room there was another pair to wear to go to the toilet, I found the range of footwear to be somewhat confusing. Our room was in two parts; one with a low table and cushions the other was the sleeping area (no bed). We were brought tea and snacks and left to relax until dinner.

Time for a bath. Japanese baths are tiny and it was bit of a squeeze. She who must be obeyed has a photo of me stuffed into this tiny container but understands that divorce will follow if it is every published. Bath-time complete and now we change into our Yukata robes for dinner. There is also a photo of me in a Yukata, but similar conditions apply.

Dead on the appointed time we head down for dinner, to find that our slip-on shoes have been reversed for us so we can step straight into them. Then into the dining room for two, a simple room looking out over the fish pond and garden with only a single fresh flower and a small pot for decoration. Everything is clean and perfect. Then dinner arrives. If felt that I should leave my camera in our room and just enjoy the occasion, so I have no photos of the nine courses we were served. But each was a minor work of art in terms of presentation and tasted divine; just a perfect meal. Sake was good too.

Then retired to sleep on the floor; slept very well.

The following morning we went down for a Japanese breakfast:

About five minutes after I took this shot, I knocked over my soup and the beautiful dining area became a quagmire. The table was awash, mats and cushions were soaked; and my jeans needed a wash.

I went out to find the father in the kitchen. He came rushing out and surveyed the scene “oh dear, I hope your trousers will be OK”. He set to work cleaning up the ruins of the dining room while I headed upstairs to change my jeans, only to find the rest of the family rearranging our accommodation for day use. They made a discrete retreat while I changed; and when I came back down the dining area had been pretty much restored to its former glory. I did my best to “arigato” and bow in all directions, apologising for the mess I had made; but they only expressed concern about my jeans and continued to do so until we left. New soup was served and a fine breakfast followed. Back to the room (via flip fops that had been turned again to match our incoming feet) and it had been transformed into a day room.

When it was time to leave, the whole family turned out to say goodbye and apologise for the damage to my jeans. I had asked if they could order me a taxi to the station; but the grandfather insisted on driving us there; a sweet final touch to a very pleasant (if expensive) experience.

Next stop: Osaka!

Comments 🔗

2013-10-14 | Andrew says

Ryokan are great places to stay although perhaps a bit pricey for long term visits - you can also search for Minshuku which are a kind of B&B equivalent but including dinner as well - often just a spare room in a family home - a bit more of them in the countryside than the cities although that may have changed a bit with the economy - they were usually about half the price of a ryokan on average - I also highly recommend a quick stop at a ¥100 store - an amazing variety of stuff from standard (cup noodles) to obscure ( diamond files and polishing stones) -everything about $1 apiece…stock up on everything you didn’t know you need till you saw it for about $10! - another dining experience well worth it is within the grounds of Daitokuji temple - there is a Shojin Ryori restaurant - vegetarian temple cooking - they have a set course lunch ( not sure about dinner ) which used to be about ¥4000 per person - menu changed according to season and what was freshest - another feast for the eyes as well as stomach and even after about 8-10 courses you were just comfortably not hungry but totally satisfied… You could be busy in Kyoto till Christmas if the list keeps growing!


2013-10-14 | Andrew says

and if the temple restaurant is full walk along the south wall of Daitokuji and look for a handmade Udon/Soba noodle shop just a bit south on one of the streets that run north to the temple wall ( name and street escape me at the moment) - look for the guy in the front window making noodles - some of the best noodles in town for (what used to be ) about ¥800-1000…


2013-10-14 | genuinej says

Non publication of a photo of you in a bath of any sort is understandable, if not indeed totally desirable. But one in a Yukata? Why not? Go on, give us a laugh!


2013-10-14 | David says

A place where i can touch Japanese pussies. Sounds like heaven to me.


2013-10-15 | Mike N says

Sounds like a shameless attempt to corrupt the google search engine for more hits …. watch the “recent search” widget !


2013-10-15 | Spike says

If I was so blatant, then I would have titled it “pulsating porn pussy Pattaya pimps kaiseki”. But indeed it seems to have impacted recent searches…


2013-10-15 | Andrew says

If you have a large stain on your pants in Osaka people just think you’re in the porn business…


2013-10-16 | Ivo H. says

Lets see … people going on holiday bring their pussy cat to this Cat Cafe and people on holiday missing their cat pay for playing with someone else’s pussy… cat? Great business model!


2013-10-16 | Spike says

Ah, the voice of experience shares with us again…


2013-10-16 | Spike says

No, they own all the cats.


2013-10-16 | Andrew says

he is obviously confusing it with the other Japanese business model of Rent-a Pussy… http://i39.tinypic.com/o6cze8.jpg


2013-10-20 | Looper says

My all-time favourite country in Asia.

I have been many times and always find it surprisingly cheap.

Nice work with the EM5!


2013-10-21 | Andrew says

Hifumi Udon - it just came back to me - best handmade noodles in Kyoto ( I think they had 2 branches)…hopefully still in business…


2013-10-22 | Spike says

Added to the “recommended by Andrew” list.


2013-10-22 | Andrew says

If that list ends up getting published as “Spike’s Guide To Kyoto " I at least want a cut ( a beer or 2 - about what you charge as a camera exporter…;-) )