To the south of Pattaya there is a new development underway called The Village. Shops, Restaurants, fast food outlets such as KFC and McDonalds, and a floating market. Oh dear.
The floating market will be a smelly pond with plastic boats containing bored and underpaid staff dressed in an approximation of traditional Thai clothing. They will be selling plastic-wrapped snacks and cheap plastic trinkets to hoards of bussed-in tourists who will take a load of photos and be convinced they have had a real Thai experience.
In times gone by, many areas of Thailand were crossed by a network of canals (klongs). People lived on the canals and, from time to time, they would paddle their little wooden boats to an agreed spot where they would barter goods with each other, and sell produce to people living in the area. Many of the canals are now gone, but the area around Samut Songkram is still lined with canals, and consequently there are a number of floating markets which can be visited. Sadly most of these are maintained to cater to tourists. Half the boats on the water are carrying assorted stuff to sell to the tourists, the other half are carrying tourists who are trying to photograph the stuff-carrying boats without getting another boat full of tourists in the background of the shot.
On Tuesday afternoon we stumbled upon the town of Ampawa, along with several thousand Thais who had decided to spend the national holiday having a day out from Bangkok. The place was heaving, especially in the market on and around the river.
Although this may be described as a floating market, in as much as there are people sitting on boats selling things, it was still very much a tourist attraction; the purpose of the boats being to sell snacks to visiting tourists, albeit Thai tourists. We were not impressed. We wanted to photograph the real thing, if it still existed.
We knew of another market out in the country, not featured on the tourist maps, and to be found only by following some inconspicuous road signs. So, early on Wednesday morning we set out across the canal infested area to the north of Samut Songkram. Some of the housing on the canals was relatively modern.
Others were very basic wooden shacks.
On the journey, Nik read the guide to the place and discovered that it only operates 4-5 times a month. But luck was on our side because by time we arrived at 0830, the market was in full swing.
First thing we noticed was that there were no tourists (apart from us and we don’t count). There were a handful of Thais who had come to buy from the market or have some breakfast:
The rest of the marketing action was taking place on the river. Some cash changed hands, but much of the trade was the bartering of goods:
Most of the boats were helmed by old ladies who, in spite of their no doubt humble living conditions, were immaculately dressed for what seemed to be as much a social occasion as a marketing opportunity. Here are some of the amazing faces:
We were given a shy smile, or totally ignored, which meant it was easy just to settle into the rhythm of the market and enjoy being there amongst these lovely people. We stayed for an hour, I could have stayed for longer; we will have to go back another time. A real piece of Thai culture which will no doubt disappear once the old ladies have passed on, or the tourist buses find the location.
Comments 🔗
2008-08-14| The Ghost saysSome great faces (and hats)
On the Pattaya thing, there was a short news piece on this about a month ago:
http://www.pattayapeople.com/default.asp?Folder=16&IdArticle=12739
2008-08-14| Billy sayssorry, Thai markets without a train running through them hold rather less allure than they once did … but the faces were to make up for this .. they age so much more interestingly than the Farangs ….
2008-08-15| Spike saysNext time I will try and arrange for a cruise liner to steam through the floating market, scattering little old ladies in all directions; just for you.